One Trekker's Quest for Resilience, Reflection, and Renewal amidst the Himalayan Majesty
During a challenging year marked by job transitions, I found myself grappling with uncertainty about the future and a pervasive sense of instability, compounded by a feeling of letdown stemming from unmet expectations. Navigating through a multitude of emotions and outcomes, I sought solace in the rhythmic cadence of my workouts. Immersing myself in yoga, weight training, and cardio, I charted a course toward both mental and physical resilience. Each day, I committed to self-care, recognizing its role as my anchor in turbulent times.
Then, amidst the chaos, came a pivotal decision: to embark on the Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek. While it may have seemed like a spontaneous choice during my evening walks, it had been quietly nestled in my to-do list for some time. I found myself shedding the shadows of fear and stepping boldly into the light of self-discovery. As the first rays of dawn kissed the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, I stood in awe at the gateway to the world's highest mountain. This is the story of my journey to Everest Base Camp also known as Sagarmatha and Chomolungma Base Camp—a trek that would test my limits, push me to new heights, and leave an indelible mark on my soul.
Trekking Itinerary
Equipped with determination and prior mountain experience, I embarked on my journey. From Kathmandu to the snow-capped peaks of the Everest/Khumbu region, each step forward was meant to manifest the resolve.
After an early morning flight, which included a connecting leg, I arrived in Kathmandu on the 6th of April evening. Following a quick briefing and last-minute errands such as obtaining a local SIM card, exchanging currency, and selecting appropriate rainwear, we managed only a few hours of sleep before waking up at 1 am. We then embarked on a drive to Ramechaap to catch an early morning flight to Lukla (aka Tenzing–Hillary Airport) which is referred to as the most dangerous airport in the world. This 35-minute flight in a small 18 seater charter plane took us through valleys, offering breathtaking views and providing an early teaser of what was in store for us. Our trek began on the same day, leading us to Phakding, nestled at 8,700 feet, blessed with a lovely weather of around 16 degrees. The trail mainly descended, causing us to lose 200 meters in elevation. However, we knew we had to regain that loss and more the following day to reach Namche Bazaar, positioned at 11,286 feet.
En route, we were treated to stunning vistas of mountain ranges and the Dudh Koshi River, catching glimpses of majestic peaks like Everest and Lhotse. Namche Bazaar felt like a scene straight out of a movie or painting, with its picturesque charm. Inspired by the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. I woke up early to explore the Namche area. Its colorful streets adorned with prayer flags, vibrant rhododendron trees, and traditional Buddhist Stupas made it a photographer's paradise.
Our journey continued as we trekked to Khumjung village located at 12434 feet, nestled at the foothills of the sacred Khumbila mountain. Legend has it that this is where the mythical Yeti was sighted, and locals have even built a monastery believed to house the Yeti Scalp. We even witnessed a light snowfall here right before we called it a night. The fifth day of our trek led us to Tengboche & Debuche located at 12664 feet, I saw a wild deer that was not intimated by us at all, unlike in Darjeeling jungles, and was busy grazing & enjoying its meal. The following day, we trekked to Dingboche located at 14468 feet and this is where the mild altitude sickness started hitting giving me a persistent headache due to the strong winds that were witnessed every day. The thin air of high altitude presented an ever-present challenge, testing my endurance and resilience. Yet, with each labored breath and weary step, I drew strength from the camaraderie of my fellow trekkers and the unwavering determination to reach my goal. This is where I noticed people popping a variety of OTC pills to help them get going, making me slightly nervous since I didn’t want to & couldn’t pop any OTC meds due to my allergies. The spirits were still high for we witnessed the beautiful views of Mount Ama Dablam, Lobuche River, Imja Valley, and more.
Then came the acclimatization day at Dingboche, where were required to do a short trek and back to witness the 360 degrees views of snow-clad mountains, including Makalu, Tobuche, Lobuche, Cholatse, Kangtega, Tamaserkur, Lhotse, Island Peak, Imja glacier, Pheriche and others. There are glaciers and glacial lakes that you can observe from this peak. The rest of the day was the resting day where some chose to nap while some visited the Imja river and others chilled at the local café.
As I ascended higher into the Himalayas to reach Lobuche & Gorakshep situated at 16207 feet and 16962 feet respectively, we crossed Thukla Pass (aka Dughla village) at 15748 feet, this place showcases over 100 memorials of the climbers and Sherpas who lost their lives in the mountains. The top of the place has small stone and cement structures with beautiful prayers written on them. Some prayers on tombstones include “Go Sleep Forever in Everest, His Soul Will Always Remain Alive, and Rest in Peace”. The deceased family, well-wishers or the local sherpas build these as a sign of respect.
We witnessed the beautiful Mt. Pumori from Gorakshep and saw many climbers summit Mt. Lobuche and we could also see the trails to Chola Pass. Gokyo Ri etc. From here the altitude sickness started becoming more evident for most of us. The air grew thinner, and each step became more laborious. AMS brought with it loss of appetite, throbbing headaches, loss of sleep, and low blood oxygen for most trekkers which led to guides monitoring the oxygen levels of all the trekkers. No matter how meticulously you prepare for the trek, nothing could fully prepare you for the relentless assault of altitude sickness. For me, Nausea crept in like an unwelcome guest, accompanied by a pounding headache that threatened to split my skull. Determined to press on, I turned to the natural remedies like devouring bowls of garlic soups, the loss of appetite didn’t make it easy but with grim determination, hoping its reputed ability to thin the blood and improve circulation would offer relief. The taste was pungent and fiery, but I gulped them down, willing them to work their magic.
Then came D-day, we were at the Everest Base Camp after trekking the moraine route as the trail went alongside Khumbu Glacier, the Khumbu icefall was visible on the way and this part of the trek made us feel like we were in heaven amidst the glaciers and gigantic mountains. EBC welcomed us with a heavy snowfall in the summer season which is a rare sight. Up until reaching the EBC most of us were tired and quiet just moving on trying to reach our goal but the moment we reached the camp situated at 17598 feet, the moods completely changed, the sense of triumph was overwhelming and the energy was suddenly very high we all started hugging, kissing and dancing, clicking each other’s pictures, shouting patriotic chants. Standing in the shadow of the world's tallest peak, I reflected on the journey that had brought me here – a journey marked not only by physical exertion but by the unwavering spirit of endurance in the face of adversity. We spent an hour on the EBC before we decided to start the descent back to Gorakshep, the temperature that night dipped to minus 24 degrees.
The Return Journey:
On the way back, we witnessed a dramatic and loud avalanche from Mt. Nupste from afar as if to say goodbye. The overall descent back to Lukla is not just a descent, it includes a steep incline every day, it’s like a wave, and we took 3 days to come back to Lukla. On the way back, some of us participated in the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee’s (SPCC) Carry Me Back (CMB) campaign and brought back at least a kg of plastic each. We partied at Lukla, danced at the certification ceremony, and shared beautiful moments and as we were ready to leave on the 18th of April to take the flight back to Kathmandu, we learned that the Mountains weren’t ready to bid us adieu. Our intercity flights got canceled 2 days in a row and most people chose to book the helicopter back to Kathmandu but the four of us decided to share the love back with the mountains by trekking a steep incline amidst red mud and wild forest to get to Paiya. We took our 1st jeep from there to reach Salleri, which took us 6 hours. The road conditions to Salleri were so bad that we were like four bobbleheads yet making the most of the views and an unconventional ride. At one point, we all had to get off the jeep to help push the vehicle which was stuck on the way, and, beat this, later our driver gets a call informing that there was a landslide at that exact spot sometime after we crossed the patch. We drove at night in our 2nd jeep to reach Kathmandu for another 8 hours covering the distance taking about 18-20 hours to make sure we took the flight back home.
As I bid farewell to the towering peaks of the Himalayas, I carry a lifetime of memories, lessons, and newfound perspectives. The 15 days trip and 12 days climb to Everest Base Camp was not just a physical feat, but a transformative odyssey that challenged me to reach beyond my limits and embrace the boundless beauty of the natural world. May my experiences inspire others to embark on their adventures, for it is in the pursuit of the unknown that we truly discover ourselves. Interactions with the resilient Sherpa people left an indelible impression on my heart. Their warm hospitality, rich cultural traditions, and unwavering spirit served as a guiding light through the challenges of the trek. Sharing meals in rustic teahouses and participating in age-old ceremonies offered glimpses into a way of life deeply rooted in the mountains. The journey to Everest Base Camp taught me invaluable lessons about perseverance, humility, and the power of the human spirit. And, most importantly, it reinforced the importance of embracing discomfort, stepping outside of my comfort zone, and embracing the unknown with open arms. It also reminded me of the profound beauty and fragility of our planet, igniting passion for conservation and stewardship.
For aspiring trekkers, I offer this advice: prioritize proper acclimatization, stay hydrated, and listen to your body. You have to obviously invest in quality gear, like sturdy hiking boots, warm layers, a reliable backpack, and a good-quality sleeping bag. Above all, approach the trek with an open mind and adventurous spirit, and you'll find that the journey is just as rewarding as the destination.
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